Laos Slow Boat: Thailand to Laos Best ways – Barefoot Surfer
One of the best ways to travel from Thailand to Laos is by taking the famous Laos slow boat down the Mekong River. It’s a scenic, budget-friendly, and immersive experience that’s perfect for backpackers and adventure travelers. In this guide, I’ll break down everything you need to know about the slow boat from Thailand to Laos, from booking to arrival in Luang Prabang.
What is the Slow Boat in Laos?
The Laos slow boat is a long wooden boat that travels from Huay Xai, near the Thailand-Laos border, to Luang Prabang. The journey takes two days, with an overnight stop in Pakbeng. It’s an affordable and relaxing way to experience the Mekong River.
My Slow Boat Experience on the Mekong River
When I was researching the route for my backpacking trip, this was one of the major transportations within the whole southeast asia route. It takes a whole two days of your travels to go the same distance a quick flight or overnight bus would take.
But, I’m very glad I took the boat. I made many great friends who I did many activities throughout Laos with. The views would be great, as long as you don’t go during the burning season like I did.
To avoid the smoky or burning season in Laos and Thailand, read the full guide on it here.
The boat is not the most comfortable, quite noisy, and even has locals shipping livestock, laundry machines, motorbikes, but it’s a highlight experience along the whole Southeast Asia trip.
Types of Boats Available
1. Budget Slow Boat – Cheapest Option for Backpackers
This is the most common choice for backpackers. The boat is basic, with wooden seats or cloth bus seats, but it offers a great opportunity to meet other travelers and enjoy the scenery.
2. Speed Boat – Not Recommended
Speed boats are much faster but dangerous and uncomfortable. The ride is loud, bumpy, and requires wearing a helmet. Not worth the risk.
You’ll see some, and may even ride one if you go to the villages that are less accessible in Laos, but I wouldn’t take one for this length.
3. Premium Cruise – Perfect for Travellers Seeking More Comfort
Luxury slow boat cruises are available for those looking for a more comfortable experience with cushioned seating, meals, and drinks included.
If you have the budget, I’ve heard good things. They also have itineraries with stops and tours along the way.
Laos Slow Boat Departure Points & Border Crossing
The slow boat leaves from Huay Xai in Laos, just across the border from Chiang Khong, Thailand.
You stop for the night in a small town, Pakbeng.
On the second day, you’ll arrive at a dock near Luang Prabang, the old Capital and cultural capital of Laos. It is a scheme where they have a tuk tuk service you are inclined to use.
Doing the Journey in Reverse? (Luang Prabang to Huay Xai)
If you’re traveling from Luang Prabang to Thailand, you can take the slow boat in reverse. The schedule and stops remain the same.
Check around town for any updates, as sometimes schedules change.
I found out the hard way when I got stuck in Muang Ngoi, Laos, due to schedule changes at the docks.
Slow Boat Itinerary – Huay Xai to Luang Prabang
- Day 1: Depart from Huay Xai around 11 AM (you are told departure is 9:30, but they depart a little after), travel down the Mekong River for 6-7 hours, and stay overnight in Pakbeng.
- Day 2: Depart Pakbeng in the morning and arrive in Luang Prabang in the afternoon.
Tip- Get to the boat a little early and you can pick your seat. Get a seat up front, as the back of the boat is VERY NOISY!
How to Get to the Slow Boat
How to Get from Northern Thailand to Laos
The most common route is from Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai to the border town of Chiang Khong, then crossing into Laos.
The border you need to cross is the Chiang Khong / Huay Xai “Friendship Bridge” Border. It’s the most northern border between the two countries.
Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong (Border Town)
Buses run daily from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong and take about 6-7 hours.
I would recommend taking a stop in Chiang Rai, staying a day or two as there are many beautiful modern temples to see.
Here is a full Chiang Rai Guide.
If you absolutely don’t want to visit Chiang Rai, you can find tickets on 12go.asia/en
For more bus options, and buy them for cheaper, head straight at the Arcade terminal 3 bus station in Chiang Mai.
Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong (Border Town)
The ride from Chiang Rai is shorter, about 2-3 hours by bus.
You have the option to either take the bus first thing in the morning to cross the border and get on the boat, or you can stay a night in the border town of Huay Xai.
If you rush to save time, pack some food ahead of time, but I would personally recommend staying a night in Huay Xai. It’s an excellent introduction to Laos with friendly kids saying high, a few ATMs to take out some money, and many shops to prepare for the boat ride.
The bus will be from the main bus station in Chiang Rai. Times are posted at a sign there, so it’s best to check when you first arrive.
When I took my trip, the times were different from those posted on blogs I read from pre-covid. The early morning bus was not available, so I was not able to cross the border and take the boat on the same day.
The Bus Ride
Buses are affordable and leave at many times throughout the day, making them the best way to reach the border.
*Note that the sign will have a price posted 70 baht (during my trip), but the driver will charge an extra 50 to take you further to the border. 70 baht is just the price to get to the center of Chiang Kong.
This is not a tourist bus. Most customers are locals taking the bus, and there are many stops in local towns as well as pickups and deliveries of packages done by the bus driver. No AC, just crack the windows for a breeze.
It’s actually quite amazing watching the bus driver hand a package to someone on a scooter while they are both driving on the road. He seems to know very well what he’s doing and makes a good side hustle.
I had a lovely time with a local little girl falling asleep on me, with her mother next to her. I guess I wasn’t too smelly for a backpacker.
Crossing the Border from Thailand to Laos
- Get stamped out of Thailand in Chiang Khong.
- Take a shuttle bus across the Friendship Bridge.
- Get your Laos visa on arrival at the Huay Xai border.
You will get paperwork to fill out and pay to take photos if you don’t have any.
Have some money with you as well in USD. If you are not going in Visa free, a visa on arrival will cost some. After you are stamped out of Thailand, you are forced to pay for a bus between the borders.
It’s not expensive or far. Just 20 bhat. The border cross used to be allowed by foot, but the bus is currently mandatory.
*Packing Tip– print out a bunch of your own passport id photos before your trip. It’ll save you time and money quite a few times along your backpacking trip!
Surprisingly, they metal detect you, but bags did not seem to be searched or scanned when my bus group crossed the border.
Laos Visa
There will be a visa fee if you are doing a visa on arrival.
The border will have the best exchange rate if you use USD (US Dollar). They accept baht or other currencies, but will give you a very poor exchange rate. Keep clean, crisp, US dollars if you have them, and have an exact amount as you may not get change.
The cost is between $30-50 for a 30 day visa on arrival depending on your passport.
The government has made efforts over the years to be stricter at the borders, but there is still some “extra fee” and tea money that some may ask for or demand. Mine was just 40 bhat.
I was personally asked for a “photo fee”, even though I handed in my own photo and there are no fees listed on official websites. It’s a few dollars, it’s just how it works in many parts of the world.
Getting from the Border to Huay Xai
After crossing, tuk-tuks or taxis can take you to the slow boat pier.
From here, you can do what you want. You can walk a long 10km for 2 hours, but I would advise taking the tuk-tuks.
There will be a group waiting at the border, who will charge a discount for larger groups.
You could also walk a few minutes and try to hitch a ride or get a tuk tuk for a little cheaper.
I was charged 100 baht for a ride from the border to anywhere in town.
What to Do in Huay Xai
If you have time before your boat departs, explore Huay Xai’s markets and restaurants.
The atmosphere changes as soon as you cross the border. The roads are dirt, yet I still saw a ford mustang, and a ford ranger raptor on my tuk tuk ride to Huay Xai. Gives an idea of the wealth distribution.
But the people are amazing. Laos and Vietnam were my absolute favorites in Southeast Asia, but they are two very different countries.
As soon as you enter Laos, you can feel the more relaxed vibes. When I first arrived in Huay Xai, the kids were playing around, and when they would see foreigners, they waved and said “hello!”, something I didn’t see as much in Thailand.
My friends and I walked around to look for a hotel for the night. The receptionists were all relaxed and welcoming. When we asked about tickets for the slow boat ride, they gave us a price.
When we went around to compare prices and negotiate, they were very upfront and told us you can go down to the docks for the best price, but their increased price included a ride down to the docks in the morning from the hotel. No sketchy sales, just upfront and honest.
As we explored down the two streets of Huay Xai, there were some dogs that barked a lot, but they were not aggressive. Just territorial to say the least. I was still skittish, as I got nipped back in Thailand and had to get rabies vaccines.
When we searched for food, we found an actual sandwich, with actual bread. Sure, the French travelers still complained about bread quality *eye roll*, but I was excited to have actual bread, which Thailand didn’t have as much of. I guess the French influence in Vietnam and Laos still remained.
Laos was going to be a great time.
Booking the Slow Boat to Laos
You can book tickets at the pier in Huay Xai, at travel agencies in Chiang Khong, through hostels in Chiang Mai, or directly at the docks in Huay Xai at the ticket office.
The ticket office will give you the best price of 200,000LAK (Laotian Kip) one day, or 400,000KIP for the full ride to Luang Prabang. This is about $20usd depending on the current exchange rate.
They peg many prices to more stable currencies, so prices may fluctuate in KIP depending on the year, but it will be about $20usd.
Cost of the Slow Boat
The Laos slow boat cost is around 400,000-500,000 LAK ($18-23 USD) for the two-day trip depending on if you purchase at the docks, or through a travel agency / hostel.
Past blogs and videos may say 200,000 LAK, but this was pre covid when KIP was about twice as strong.
But, there are additional costs that you need to account for such as food supplies, hotel cost for one night of the trip, and transportation to the city from the dock.
For all costs, I would budget about $50USD or 1,000,000LAK in total to be safe. Expect to spend about $5-15 USD for a hotel room in Pakbeng, as well as $2-3 USD for the transportation from dock to city, and another $5-10 for food and some more for drinks if you dabble.
A few snacks and Sandwiches will cost a few dollars, or euros, or whatever you use. Just buy your supply for the day, because food and drinks on the ship are limited.
What to Pack for the Slow Boat from Thailand
- Snacks and water (limited options on board)
- Cushion for seating comfort
- Warm clothes (it can get chilly depending on season)
- Sunscreen and hat
- Entertainment (book, music, or games)
- Good Attitude (make some friends)
What to Do on the Slow Boat for Two Days
- Enjoy the scenery
- Chat with fellow travelers
- Read or listen to music
- Take photos of the stunning Mekong landscapes
Sleeping in Pakbeng
Pakbeng is a small town where travelers stay overnight. Guesthouses are available for $5-15 USD.
*Budgeting Tip– If you are solo, you can split a room with two to four beds with some others to save some money if you don’t mind.
Also, no need to book in advance online. When you arrive at the docks in Pakbeng, you’ll be bombarded with sales people for hotels. They know you’re limited on options, so there is little negotiating room.
You’ll be offered a ride up the hill to the town. It’ll be dark soon, but the restaurants are all on one strip of town. There are also many local convenience stores to stock up on snacks for day 2 of your ride.
I ate with a group of friends I made on the boat, and then went to the only bar in town afterwards. Made more friends there, and the time in the rest of Laos is a fun group adventure from there.
For morning food prep, there are shops that will sell lunchboxes or sandwiches in the morning, and shops that sell water and snacks as well.
Arriving in Luang Prabang
The boat arrives in Luang Prabang in the afternoon to evening. From the pier, tuk-tuks can take you to the city center.
Be wary of the tuk-tuk “mafia” there. The dock the boat takes you to is definitely put further from the city to allow this transportation business to make more money.
No ridiculous charges, just smart business.
Again, can’t negotiate this since it’s one group that runs it. They charge 35,000LAK per person if you have a full group.
I would recommend having your first night booked in Luang Prabang before arriving. Your signal will be patchy on the slow boat, so you’re better off booking a few days in advance. This is one of the few times I would recommend booking accommodation in advance.
It’ll be dark when you get in town, and all that will be on your mind is some rest and food.
Head your way to the night market to grab a bite and explore around. Luang Prabang is amazing!
Tips for Taking the Slow Boat
- Arrive early to get a good seat.
- Bring cash (no ATMs at the pier).
- Be prepared for a long but scenic journey.
Slow Boat FAQs
How long does the slow boat from Thailand to Laos take?
Two days, with an overnight stop in Pakbeng. You leave in the morning on “Island Time”, and arrive when you arrive, usually in the evening.
How do I get a slow boat from Laos to Thailand?
Take the boat in reverse from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai. Same procedure, just slower and louder since you are going upstream.
Does the slow boat to Laos run every day?
Yes, unless weather or river conditions prevent it.
How much is the slow boat to Luang Prabang?
Bring around 400,000 LAK ($20 USD) for the who
How much is the visa and what are the requirements to enter Laos?
Visa on arrival costs $30-45 USD, depending on nationality. Bring passport photos and cash.
What is the best time of year to do the slow boat from Thailand to Laos?
The dry season (November to April) is best for calm waters and good weather.
Does the slow boat run every day in the rainy season?
Yes, but delays are possible due to river conditions.
How do I get from Chiang Rai to Huay Xai?
Take a bus or minivan (2-3 hours).
Are there insects on the slow boat?
Not many, but insect repellent is recommended.
Can I get seasick?
The river is calm, so seasickness is rare.
What footwear should I bring?
Comfortable sandals or sneakers.
Do I need sunscreen in Laos?
Yes, the sun can be strong on the river.
How Long Does the Laos Slow Boat Take?
Two full days of travel.
How Much Does the Slow Boat Cost?
Approximately 400,000 LAK or €20.
Where Do the Slow Boats Depart From?
From Huay Xai, Laos.
What to Bring on the Slow Boat?
Snacks, water, cushion, warm clothes, entertainment.
Are There Toilets Available?
Yes, but they are basic.
What To Do If You’ve Missed Your Slow Boat?
Stay in Huay Xai and take the next day’s boat.
Final Tips for the Local Slow Boat
The Laos slow boat is one of the best ways to travel from Thailand to Laos. If you’re a budget backpacker, it’s affordable, scenic, and a fantastic way to meet other travelers. Just come prepared and enjoy the ride!